Life Journey

Fairy Chimneys, Capadocia

You’ll never imagine where I’m writing this post. I’m snuggled inside a volcanic cone-shaped cave, toasty warm from the fire while it’s a drizzly 5C outside, in Cappadocia (see a picture of our suite). It’s an amazing region, rich in “fairy chimney” formations, which have been used as homes, churches, and monasteries since at least the 11^th century. The cave I’m in has 4 stories of rooms, all hollowed out by hand in the 5th or 6th century. We could have a huge party and sleep 10 easily here – it’s much bigger than my Toronto apartment! We wish you were here with us! Some of the other caves are just simple rooms. It’s a historical area, protected from new cave development or changes.

Yesterday we visited 11^th and 12^th century byzantine cave churches. They were very small, often used by monk and hermit communities of less than 20 people. I was just in awe of the carved apses, altars, and 800-year old paintings, artistically and spiritually beautiful, and most of them beautifully preserved. One had 15 paintings of the life of Jesus; some celebrated Saint George, Saint Barbara and Saint Catherine. A Greek Orthodox priest with his friends sung a hymn in the “dark church,” which was the largest with the best preserved paintings. It was very moving.

12th Century Cave Church

I read of another Biblical places that I’ve been to in Acts 20 — Miletus, where my favourite Roman theatre remains to this day. I climbed its many steps to the top, and walked under its arched second-story roof that reminds me of the corridor in the SkyDome where you can buy drinks. A Turkish family waved to us when we were on the ground and asked us to take their picture, and some Kurdish girls spontaneously gave me a fresh cotton-branch bouquet; they were taking a break from a back-breaking day of cotton picking amongst the ruins in their backyard. On the way out of the village I met the girls, their teenage friends, and old women who were picking cotton in the hot sun. I asked to pick up a bag of cotton to test its weight – those fluffy balls were 60 lbs! What a hot, hard job, and only women were picking. The traditional life was so evident in the simple homes, each with its own olive tree and goat. I love the Turkish hospitality, which is so warm and genuine.

I’m reading Acts – very appropriate while we’re touring of Turkey. In the last month, we’ve visited 3 of the 5 places mentioned in Acts 18 alone – Athens, Rome, Ephesus. Cesarea is 70 km from where I am now in Turkey.

Today was a very special day, especially for my friend. He is a fan of Rumi, the 13^th century mystic poet, and planned a visit to Rumi’s city, Konya, especially to see it. The visitors to the museum were all clearly moved by Rumi’s work. One man was outside the gates, fervently praying; two women sat in a corner of the museum, reading Rumi’s poems. My friend read me some of his poems on the way into the city, and while I knelt and prayed in the adjacent mosque, my hair covered in the women’s room, I experienced a deep sensation of the light of love exploding in my chest, as one of the poems called us to notice – and nurture. There is a very special spirituality here. I believe it’s because of the message, of love and peace, and the seekers’ prayers.